Monday, September 16, 2013

One European Dream... Venice, ITALY



May 10-11, 2012


DAY 1

May 10, 2012


on board Trenitalia
On board Eurostar Italia AV 9406 Frecciargento in Coach 1 seat number 45 in the first class accommodation, we arrived Venezia Sta Lucia station after a 3-4 hour of rail cruising. The advantage of having Eurail as my ticket, the accommodation is always first class, I just paid EUR 10 for the required seat reservation. It was my first time riding a high-speed train from Roma Termini. The trip was smooth, the couch were great. I am sitting on a solo window seat. Departing Rome, I saw the lush greens along the way. Nice views in the rural areas as we traverse the tunnels. I was asleep after the snacks were served but managed to take pictures on some greens along the way.   

We had a quick stop at Verona. I knew that we’re already near since I’ve seen Verona while checking train routes. I am thrilled that I never felt asleep. I was feasting my eyes on the views. We have reached the point that we’re like on a bridge where both sides I saw bodies of water. I immediately think we’ll be arriving in awhile. While crossing the island, there was this feeling of excitement. I was delighted seeing one cruise ship docked near the train station. I’ve seen the sea, the buildings and yes it’s Venice.

I took my bags, got off the train and hurriedly went outside. To my surprise, the station was just at the Grand Canal where waterbuses, water taxis were cruising. I’ve seen waters all over and I immediately looked for my hotel for me to check in, to refresh and to start my Venetian adventure. I chose my hotel close to the train and the waterbus stations, just walking distance. It was also close to shops and restaurants. 

I stayed at Hotel Universo Nord for two nights paying at around EUR 80-110 per night. It was an old Venetian building that I don’t exactly know when it was built. I got a nice air-conditioned room, just a livable one with a bath tub inside. 

After fixing my things, off I went to the nearby waterbus station. To buy tickets, you need to choose which of the saver tickets will suit your needs. Since I only have a day and a half stay in Venice, I decided to purchase a 36-hours waterbus unlimited pass paying around EUR 30 since single pass was a bit expensive costing EUR 6. I saved a lot with the unlimited waterbus ride. There were water taxis also in the area but I haven’t tried one since I know it will cost a lot. The waterbus also serves as the public transportation throughout the island. You cannot see any four-wheeled vehicle roaming around. Lots of walking in the place since you will be passing thru narrow alleys. Since I’m new in the place, I just hopped on the waterbus and went to San Marco. From Ferrovia station, we passed thru the famous Venetian icon, the Rialto Bridge. I was amazed along the way. I can’t stop taking photos on every building we’re passing. I thought I’ll be seeing this only on TV but now I am really cruising the Grand Canal myself. I suddenly remembered several Venice movies scenes of James Bond and that of the Italian Job movie.

Arriving at San Marco Station, I am flattered by the gondolas parked along the walkway. There was vast open water where you can see come beautiful churches across. Some gondolas gliding with the small waves created by the waterbuses and water taxis crossing. I’ve also seen yachts and a sail boat. Several cruise liners were also passing the area to and from the Venice port. 

Basilica di San Marco
San Marco Square was one of the attractions in Venice. There you may find Basilica di San Marco, the bell tower, Doge’s palace and the museum in the area. It was a big area with shops and restaurants. It was located near the Venetian Lagoon, with access to nearby islands around the area. It was about lunchtime that I had to grab some food to eat. I checked with one of the local shops and asked for a Panini and a soda for EUR 12, just enough to fill my stomach and be ready for the afternoon’s activity. I also met some Filipinos having tour also, they were working on the cruise ship and fortunately I asked them to take pictures of me. 


San Marco Square
The Basilica di San Marco was not just nice on the outside but it’s also magnificent in the inside. You can easily notice the mosaic on each arches of the Basilica. It was finely crafted using gold, marble and other stones. The bell tower was standing tall in front of the Basilica that I managed to climb it in the afternoon of the day before I left Venice. Foods are everywhere you just have to choose your preference. 

I have booked and joined the three islands tour: Murano, Burano and Torcello. I paid online with Viator for EUR 20 and just redeem the coupon at the booth near the station. The guy instructed me to wait around the area. I was one of the few who arrived first; we had a chit chat with other tourists who were also joining the tour. It was a 4-hour shared group tour in a medium size boat. Different nationalities were joining the tour and it was fun talking to them. We had a multilingual guide speaking in English, Spanish, Italian and French. She was so funny that she spoke several dialects one after the other to cater different tourists. She spoke English, Spanish, French and Italian.

Our first destination was the island of Murano. Murano is known for their crafts of blown glass. It was incredible that they can create a wonderful piece in just minutes. We alight the boat and being directed to one shop. They have demonstrated to us the way to make this so-called blown glass. One crafted a vase out of a very small glass being heated on the fire. Literally they blew the glass connected to the tube creating a balloon-like formation. Then the craftsman was designing the vase using his tools to wave the edges adding beauty to the vase. Can you just imagine, a vase can be created in less than 15 minutes? The other guy was melting his solid glass on fire and started to bend and shape the molten glass. After a minute of twists and turns, it came out a nice glass horse. I was so amazed on how talented they are in creating those special works of art. Inside the shops were displays of their crafts. Different prices on different items depending on how detailed and how big it is. All of the displays were astounding. I am just so careful not to bump on an item as I will pay a fortune on it. As a souvenir, I bought two gondola designed glass at the store for EUR 11 each in the factory itself even if it was priced higher than what you can find in the main island of Venice. 

Next stop was the island of Torcello. We were told that the island only have 16 inhabitants. It was the farthest among the three islands but it is just near the island of Burano. They have a small port in which the boats can dock to it. The main attraction of the island was the old Cathedral of Maria Assunta which was just 5-10 minute walk through the narrow walkway beside a canal. The views along the way are spectacular seeing a typical rural area with the green grass around. You can pass by several houses and a restaurant also. At the end of the road, you can see the Cathedral of Maria Assunta and Church of Santa Fosca both dating back centuries ago. You can imagine the beauty of the church centuries back. It was built in bricks and had a mosaic floors inside. They no longer hold mass on the cathedral itself because there was a Church of Santa Fosca beside the old church where the mass will be celebrated. It also houses the skull of St. Cecilia as a relic. The place was so sacred and well respected. It was well-maintained and available for viewing by tourists for a minimal fee of EUR 3. Inside the church was exquisite and photograph is prohibited inside. We were just given 30 minutes to explore the place as we have to move to our last destination.

The last stop was with the island of Burano. It had a very colorful pastel houses. It is a big community and was really known to have these magnificent colorful houses painted with charming pastel colors. You will really be amazed how the locals cooperate in maintaining such wonderful beauty on their place. Walking along their stone paved walkway, you can find souvenir shops and restaurants in place. We were directed to one shop near the church of St Martin making this hand-made lace which made Burano know for. The hand-made lace was finely crafted to its perfection, they were really making it by hand coming along with the patterns they want to create. There were lots of things to buy, many items to chose from, some were cheap but most of it were expensive. But it’s a nice keepsake souvenir from the place. We don’t have ample time on roaming around the island. But simply seeing those pastel houses really would create an impression that the whole of the Burano Island would look the same. 

We went back to the main island after Burano. I felt so tired and sleepy since it’s siesta time. We also spent 4 hours on the entire three-island tour. 

Back at the main island, I looked for some souvenirs. I managed to take some photos around, made feast on the views in the early afternoon and then I took the waterbus back to my hotel. I just stayed awhile at the lobby since internet is available only at the hotel lobby, I managed to call my friends and my mom via Skype. I just killed my time like that while waiting for my time to have dinner. Several minutes later, I went out for dinner. Now it’s pasta time, near my hotel was a restaurant offering pasta dishes. I tried one dish that night and it was delicious plus a glass of merlot. One order starts at Euro 10 for the dish and Euro 6 for a glass of red wine. It’s a wow! A good night sleep follows. I have to take an early rest, to regain all the energy that had been wasted on my trip from Rome to Venice and for the 4-hour three islands tour.

DAY 2

May 11, 2012


Rialto Bridge
I got up not that early in the morning. I took a shower and prepared for the day’s itinerary. I went to their breakfast nook, grab some bites for me to sustain the activity in the morning which was the 3-hour walking tour, the Best of Venice Walking Tour. After eating, I went back to my room to get my things. My backpack and camera were all set and I’m ready to go. I checked my calendar in my iPhone to which I registered all my activities ahead, also double check with my printed confirmation receipt for my walking tour and it’s said that we’ll meet at a square near Rialto Bridge. I was then excited for a stop at the Rialto Bridge.


I hopped on to the waterbus going to Rialto Bridge. The travel was short, just few minutes, we’ll be there, just early enough for me to have some morning view on the place. Arriving at the destination, I noticed that the stores on the bridge itself were still closed. I hurriedly hopped off from the waterbus and tried to locate our meeting place. Since I got enough time for me to roam around, I managed to take early pictures on the place. I enjoyed the serenity of the place where only few people walking. 

Just as scheduled, the group gathered on the square on time. We were given our earphones for us to hear our guide properly while we keep on walking. After the check and testing of the headsets, we went our way to a place across  the bridge. 

We commenced our tour in Rialto Bridge. We passed thru the fresh market. If I say it’s fresh, it really is fresh! The market will be available daily and it’s in the morning only. But we were also told that there were markets that will open in the afternoon on certain locations. Fresh produce coming from the inland farms and fresh catch fish from fishermen were sold in the place. The place is not that big but it’s just enough to cater the vendors and the customers also. If you feel like cooking, you just have to be early in the market to catch the freshest goods you want to buy. The prices I think were right enough the budget.  

Moving along, as part of understanding how to walk around Venice, our guide Alexandra explained us also how to read and understand the signs that were being placed on the building near the passageway. In this case, we can manage to roam around the place without bringing our own maps as maybe maps will just confuse us. The place is complete with signs on which way to go. The ones painted with white was the name of the district and the ones in yellow were for the direction going to one landmark. One tip, you must know where you’ll go so you just have to look for the sign and eventually follow the arrows leading to it. 


While walking, she also explained to us the important events that took place on the area. We passed thru narrow alleys, crossed some canals, and went into a place where it’s like a very secluded one, then proceed to another alley leading to a square. The church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo was so nice. It was built on bricks and it’s a huge church. Beside it lie the mason house and a beautiful paved square in front with a monument at the center. There were hotels around it but I don’t really know how to get to the place, I just followed my guide. 


We moved to different significant sites along the island, explaining us the events that had happened before. It’s nice to see some sites inside Venice as our guide explained us the roles of some structures such as the water wells present in their piazza. She also managed to explain the activities that are being done such as there was a specific time to take water on the wells. There were plenty of Churches we’ve passed. Some were already closed and some were being used as a museum but the structures were still preserved. We kept on walking, passing along narrow alleys, we reached one side of the Grand Canal, and now we’re near San Marco.

Bridge of Sighs
Along the way, Doge’s Palace was situated fronting the Grand Canal. It was the home of the ruler before,  the justice house and also being connected to the a prison on certain period. We saw the bridge of sighs connecting the prison and the Doge’s Palace. It is literally a connection of one building to the other having small windows and a canal beneath the bridge.

Basilica di San Marco
We continued our journey going to the magnificent Basilica di San Marco. The Basilica is one of the landmarks of Venice aside from Rialto Bridge. Part of the tour that I booked was the skip-the-line access to the Basilica. Doing the line will take 15 minutes just to get inside, so this skip-the-line thing was a plus as we don’t have to wait for the long queue. Before getting inside the Church itself, we first went to the second level of the church. It’s a small museum showcasing some important historical events of Venice. They have featured the original four golden horses that were said to be successfully claimed from France after Napoleon Bonaparte took it. Also in the museum, we can directly see the marvelous golden ceiling of the Basilica. We also have access to the terrace of the church overlooking the square in front and the lagoon on the side. 

When we went down to the first level of the church, mosaic floors were brilliant. It is still preserved as to its original construction. The view of the golden ceiling from the first floor was really overwhelming. Mass was regularly held inside the church so they have available chair for sitting while attending the celebration. It had very nice pillars, if you can really see it for yourself; you’ll tell yourself that you’re lucky enough for the opportunity. 

After Basilica di San Marco, the group parted ways as to the ones not taking up the Doge’s Palace. I squeezed in another hour and half for the tour since I’m already there so I won’t miss the chance also. Again, we skipped the line and went inside immediately. You can see an open ground inside; they have the stairs where the Doge was accepting honored guests before. They still have the nice ceilings and the wide stairways. Doge’s Palace was also the house of justice before. They still have the drop boxes used in submitting complaints to the government. They were just using the drop boxes to hide the identity of the complainants. They will investigate as to what was being complained and decision will be made in the house. Doge’s palace was connected to the jail thru bridge of sighs. It is a narrow bridge with a window where you can see the canal outside of it. In the jail, huge iron doors were fixed in the stone walls and the windows were not that big. We ended our tour back at the Doge’s palace near the main gate fronting the staircase and it’s time for lunch. 

my lunch
I decided to take my lunch at the restaurant near my hotel. I hopped on the waterbus back to my hotel after the walking tour. The restaurant was just near the Ferrovia station so I eat first. Ordered pasta a la carbonara and it was yum! They served me with the grated cheese and a bottle of water. A bread basket also was served and I thought it was just for free. When I ask for my check, I noticed that I was being charged with the two pieces of bread that I ate. Good thing the price is not that expensive.  The ambiance was good, dining on the riverbank with nice flowers on the side. Paying Euro 20 for lunch that good was nothing with my goals of eating different pasta dishes while in Italy.

Bell Tower
Early afternoon, I was just in my hotel, downloading pictures and uploading it in my Facebook account. I also find time talking to my mom back in the Philippines using Skype. I’m just staying at the hotel lobby since the wifi was only available there and the signal was good. After 2 hours in the net, I decided to go back to San Marco for a souvenir hunt and my plan was to apply what I’ve learned from Alexandra which is walking thru Venice without a map. I remembered googling it and printing the direction on where to pass but since we’re taught the easiest way, I have to try it myself before leaving the place. 

I got off the waterbus and walked towards San Marco. When I saw the tower, I decided to take a peek of Venice at the top of the bell tower. Good thing there’s only few people around and I easily got an elevator pass from the ticketing booth. On top of the tower, the view was amazing, full or houses, you can see the islands also. I tried locating the places I went thru, and I also tried to follow the route of the waterbus imagining the Grand Canal. I spent few minutes on top, taking pictures and enjoying the fresh breeze up there. 

From San Marco, I started walking towards Rialto, and I was fascinated with the shops along the way. Left and right, I wanted to get inside on every shop I was passing thru. You can’t feel bored as there were lots of tourists walking too. Boutiques here, souvenir shops there, I can’t help myself but to stop for some interesting displays. Gelato store are everywhere and so inviting. The price is between EUR 2-5 depending on the size of the cups. I chose the EUR 5 and I tried different flavors. You can combine three flavors in one cup. I’ve eaten gelato while walking and I really loved the mint flavor. It’s like a palate cleanser. I kept on walking, following the signs, and I was surprised, I’m already in Rialto. 

me with the gondolier
I tried to find my luck in Rialto, asking some gondoliers on how much they’ll be offering me. Euro 80 for a 30-minute gondola ride was expensive. I was hopeless that I was about to grab the chance since my feeling is that I will not complete my Venice experience without the gondola ride. Luckily, there came this Indian couple who was asking the same gondolier. Same price was given as it’s the standard price per gondola ride. They rejected the offer but the gondolier told them if they want to share a ride with me. Thanks to them that they agreed. 
my gondola ride

We boarded the gondola and started gliding along Grand Canal passing Rialto, going thru narrow canals inside Venice. We had a chance of passing to the house of Marco Polo as our gondolier also had showed us. The good thing that I have these couple was for picture taking purposes. I took pictures of them and they took mine, we’ve exchanged places. We had lots of fun and laughter while having a wonderful ride, without noticing that our 30 minutes was over. Thanks for the gondolier and the Indian couple that I have completed my Venice experience. We have just shared our ride; I gave EUR25 for my share. 
my dinner
A nice smile was painted on my face as we finished our gondola ride. I felt like I have accomplished something. So I decided to walk again from Rialto to Ferrovia, there were many souvenir shops that I couldn’t help myself but to buy some small items. I enjoyed the trail following the signs to Ferrovia. Some signs were like you have to choose which way, left or right still reaching the same end. It’s like a friendly maze that sometime you can see some dead ends. And it was a great experience. It didn’t took me long to reach Ferrovia and I decided to reward myself with another pasta dish and red wine for dinner.

I went back to my hotel for an internet glance when a Filipino couple arrived. We’re both staying in the same hotel we also arrived the same day and we’ll also be leaving the same day on board the same train bound for Milan. They’ll be catching their train to Zurich while I will be catching mine to Geneva in the afternoon. They are both working in Doha. We’ve exchanged stories and experiences but I think I didn’t pay attention to their names, I really forgot both names. I haven’t taken their facebook accounts too or even their numbers. How crazy I am. Lol

Ended my stay in Venice with a photo shoot at night I took at the bridge near the waterbus station, I walked a bit inside Venice for some glimpse of Venice by night. A very nice place. If given a chance to be back then I’m sure I’ll be grabbing it.